Re: Question for Reinactors and GOOD TO SEE YA CHAUNCY!!!

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: HEY!  Great to see you back with us Chauncy!!!!  

: Bill R

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: : Nightsky,

: : I recommend flat-felled seams.  I have made couple of shirts now, and examined several, and left "unfelled" or not surged, the seams ravel (or course, surging requires a machine).  I second Seamus' recommendation for using Beth Gilgun's instructions; I use a different set of instructions but I've read hers and think they would work and many people swear by them.  The trick is to gather the sleeves and then doing the flat-felled seams -- the gathered side is the turned over side, which is awkward.  But that has worked for me.  

: : Good luck,
: : Pvt. Chauncey

: : 
: : : : : NightSky:

: : : : : If you are making the shirt with leather, I recommend using either a chain stitch (2 needles, two sinews "locking" each stitch) or a whip stitch, both of which make finer, tighter seams on leather.  If I want a really strong seam on fine leather I sometimes use a small blanket stitch, which is really just a whip stitch with each stitch "locked" by the next stitch.  The blanket edge also adds a nice decorative effect.  For a fabric shirt running stitch is fine, and both French seams and flat-feld seams are perfectly appropriate.  If you are sewing by hand and using a running stitch, be sure to back stitch all the seams that are likely to take extra tension, like underarms.
: : : : :   Happy sewing!

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: : : : ~~~~~~~
: : : : Thanks, Lady Ann.  I'm using osnaburg for the shirt, so French seams were a must as far as I'm concerned.  I know Dana likes raveling, but it makes me crazy!

: : : : Do you know of any tricks to get a glovers needle to slide more easily through leather?  I have some beautiful, fine buckskin I was going to make some possibles bags out of.  The stitch info will help tremendously, thanks again.  NightSky

: : : ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

: : : NightSky,

: : : You can use glovers needles or regular needles for that matter on buckskin without fear. It is very easy to penetrate, and will sew several thicknesses easily. If you are concerned, though, try it on some scrap and punch it if you have to do so. Buckskin is not reall a good leather for hunting bags, though, because it has no body and all the "goodies" will center in the bottom and pull it out of shape. Deerskin is very stretchy...One really should use a stiffer hide.

: : : I do have a very old Indian made, quilled hunting bag of deerskin. It is quite interesting in its construction. The body is 3 layers thick, the strap hangers are 5 layers thick, and it is all stitched with sinew....and gorgeous. The strap is braided cord and has powderhorn loops woven into it. Ottawa, I believe. 

: : : I had a friend, Chuck Edwards, from Missouri, make me a bag patterned, but not copied from it, and he used the same construction methods. It stiffened it up fine. You must reinforce deerskin to make it work right for a hunting bag.

: : : I am not too much help on shirts, except to say that if you follow Beth Gilgun's advice in her book, you cannot go wrong. I have shirts with both kinds of seams, and the place they need most attention is across the shoulders because that is where the wear is. Under the arms is not a problem because they are not tight enough to be stress points. 

: : : Hope this helps.

: : : Pax Aye!

: : : Seamus

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